Friday, August 7, 2026
End: Roquefixade Memorial Monument
Kilometers: 21.4
Total: 21.4
We woke up on our overnight train from Paris. I had slept well enough and I hoped the rest of us had as well. Before long, we got off the train at Foix, and we were on the hike!
Walking through town, we took a photo next to the Ariege River, with the Château de Foix in the background. Passing through a park, we stopped for a minute to let rhe kids play. I knew it might be the last decent playground we saw on the trip.
In a sense it was a shame to be starting in Foix, because it was the only big town on the route. We got off the trail briefly to get groceries and bread. We got plenty of food, knowing that there wouldn’t be another store of any real interest to us for atleast three days.
Leaving Foix and the nearby villages, we approached the easily-spotted Pain de Sucre, a lone hill with a large rock on top. So far, the Pyrenees seemed to be different in their geology, their rocky tops and outcroppings being quite distinct.
At Montgailhard, we turned North and began a long, grueling climb. Starting thus, we encountered another hiker, a rare event for us. I learned he was on his first hike, and was only on the trail for one day, before attending a festival near Roquefixade. We would pass each other throughout the day.
We took many breaks as the sun beat down on us. We finally made it up to the Roc de Sainte-Julie, and I took a photo. We enjoyed every step in the shade, though they were few and far between. Soon enough we descended into the hamlet of Carybat, where we were lucky enough to find water. The fountain was not rhe best ever, covered in moss, with tadpoles swimming in it. I filtered it and haven’t had any issues.
From there it was back up the hill again, in the blistering heat. We were suffering. Making to the Clot des Bucs, we turned and enjoyed a little time not spent climbing.
We were drinking a lot of water, and Ibhad some hope that the water marked on the map at Charillon would be gold. Unfortunately, when we arrived, I saw that it was completely dry.
Down to Leychert we went, but there wasn’t any water there either. We still had plenty, but it had become hot water. Alex remarked the folks in this village are living in the middle of nowhere.
Moving on, we climbed back up the hill. I scouted ahead with a walkie-talkie to see when the climb would end. I checked out the Sources du Buc near the tip for water, but found it was a stagnant puddle of algae.
By now the incessant whining had turned to tears. I couldn’t handle it anymore. In my mind, when a difficult situation arises, the only thing to do is to find a solution. We had to move forward, however badly we felt.
The good news is that we were pretty much done climbing upwards. We skirted along the side of the hill, looking for Roquefixade. I went ahead, and passed the turn for the chateau. I was in no mood to climb up to see it up close, I took a photo from below.
I did eventually make it into the village, and went straight for the fountain. I found it stagnant, but there was a catering service preparing for a wedding using the town hall, and I got some water from their kitchen sink. Back to the trail, I waited for the others, then returned to the town hall to fill all the other bottles. Finally, we had cool water. Worth a lot on a day like this.
By now, all anyone could talk about it where we were going to camp. Originally I had wanted to go much further, but now it was clear that the sooner we stopped hiking today, the better.
We found a spot where a tent could fit at the memorial to a group of French Resistance fighters in World War II. I set up the tent. The children set up our sleeping pads and bags. Alex was having a breakdown, and soon I felt nauseous. I lay down on my pad, trying to figure out what why I felt so poorly. Perhaps some sort of reaction to the heat and not having eaten all day.
I was unable to eat more than a couple bites, but Alex cooked up dinner for the kids, and they ate their fill. Soon it was time to sleep, though the temperature was still not particularly cool.
