June 15
End: Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to
Miles: 31.7
Total: 3921.4
I packed up in the morning and headed over to Harrison’s fishing camp, crossing some sketchy logs on the outlet of Pierce Pond. It was closer than I thought it would be, but I was disappointed to find out that the breakfast would cost at least nine dollars. I declined, but the owner let me hang on there for a few minutes, get some water, and read his hiker logs.
There were so few northbound thru-hikers ahead of me it was just silly. Iceman, Viking and Samus were all probably a day ahead of me. Peach Fuzz was way ahead and probably summiting Mount Katahdin by now. I left and hiked hard to get to the Kennebec River.
The Kennebec River is the only part of the Appalachian Trail which is not officially meant to be crossed on foot, but rather via ferrying by canoe. The canoe ferry only runs for two hours in the morning, making things difficult for hikers who would prefer not to get washed away by the dam upstream letting out a flood of water, which happens when there is a need for more electrical power.
Thankfully I got to the river with plenty of time to spare, but I could not see any ferries. Finally I saw a man on the far bank and signaled him. Soon enough he came over in the canoe and I met Hillbilly Dave, the ferryman. I disgustedly signed some release form and hopped in the canoe. Pretty soon my free ride was all over and I was powering my own way down the trail past Caratunk, a nothingburger town just off of the trail.
The rest of the day was not distinct from the previously-traversed parts of Maine. There were more mosquito-infested ponds and swamps to power walk past, and a few wooded hills. The only new items were more and more southbounders, as well as more fords to complete, which were quite difficult and painful.
I thought I only had one ford near the end of the day, but actually I had more. The outlet of one of the ponds was really a ford, and a difficult one at that. The water was deep, the current was fast, and it was difficult to keep my footing.
Every time I have to ford something I usually take my socks and shoes off, put them in my pack, and walk barefoot brought the water. This is time-consuming, painful, painfully cold, and usually very slippery. It was nice to be able to put on dry socks and shoes after it was all over, but in the meantime I was hobbling through rushing currents looking for a stone that wouldn’t make me slip head first into the water. I also usually carried my iPhone in my mouth so as to not let it get wet in my pocket.
The pond outlet was difficult, and when I found the East Branch of the Piscataquis River I had to take my shoes and socks off more than once as I forded small streams leading into the river, then finally the river itself. I persevered and got my socks and shoes on for the final stretch.
Walking along the river, something small and black scurried back into the woods ahead of me. Was it a bear cub?! If it was, it would be the first I had really seen on the whole trip. I wasn’t positive that I had just seen a bear, but it seemed to be of the right size and color.
Arriving at Horseshoe Canyon Lean-to, I found a bunch of south-bounders there, but there was still room in the shelter for me, despite a couple of tents residing in the shelter. We had a good time joking amongst ourselves as we cooked dinner. Several of them were treating themselves regularly for glaucoma (I assume), so my jokes were received even better than usual. We all slept soundly.
