July 5
End: Causapscal
Miles: 27.2
Total: 4265.6
Right off the bat I was climbing out of Le Quartz. In fact, my whole morning consisted of steep climbs and descents, and fording rivers and creeks. I seemed to have plenty of energy for this, because I never felt tired or sick of the trail.
Reaching Refuge Le Ruisseau, I read over the log and noted lots of people mentioning a local trail maintainer named Remi. I climbed up a steep gravel road, then followed that for a long time. I felt as if I were in Florida again as I walked the dirt jeep trail past hunting stands and through the woods.
Finally the road came out to St. Marguerite, where there was a camping space with a refuge and a sign claiming water was there, but seemed to be pointing to a residential street. Just as I was about to give up on the water, a man walked out of the nearest house and I met Remi.
Remi didn’t know much English, but we were able to communicate through charades. He kept saying “Good boy!” when he leaned about my trip, which I thought was very funny. He had the key to the refuge, but I moved on as I planned to get to Causapscal. Remi encouraged me with the news that hikers could stay at some spot in Causapscal and Amqui.
The trail from then on was more roads, most of them dirt. I walked on and on, and finally started to feel I was getting close to the town. Eventually I did come to the road, and walked to the grocery store, where I picked up some food, none of it cheap.
I moved from spot to spot in the town as I ate and charged my phone. I wasn’t sure where the spot Remi mentioned was, but thought I had passed it. As I walked out of town I passed a campground. At first I passed it by, but then thought better of it and went to the office. The boy there didn’t know of any place to stay, so I walked away. Then he came after me with a key in his hand.
It was a key to a refuge, free for Quebec passort thru-hikers, somewhere on the property! He didn’t know where it was, but I went off in search of my much-desired resting place. I found it easily enough, and noted with satisfaction that there were showers and electrical plugs nearby. I spent the night there and slept some once the noise of the other campers quieted down.
